Great Smoky Mountains National Park Blog by Richard Weisser of SmokyPhotos.com

O’ take me to my mountains
Where crystal rivers flow
And tumble past electric leaves
That emit October’s glow.

Sweet smells of Fall’s disrobing
Awaiting Winter’s blasts
'Tis nature's hued full glory
That merely weeks will last.
               (R Weisser 2011)

The fall leaf season is my favorite time of year. There is something exquisitely exciting about the finite nature of the season.

One cannot put off leaf-gazing as every day more and more tie-dyed tree feathers are dislodged by the first wafts of Winter’s onset and flitter to the earth.

So there is a sense of urgency that compels one to savor every second of the season until it is extinguished.

A photograph cannot capture the aromas of fallen leaves or the sounds of the wind rustling in the tree-tops. But we continually try in vain to successfully capture the splendor of the season.

Enjoy it while it lasts. It will soon be gone!

Photos courtesy of Richard Weisser and SmokyPhotos.com

There’s a place that beckons us and seizes our thoughts. And try as we might to ignore it, it calls to us during our hectic lives and interrupts our busy schedule.

It’s the stuff of daydreams and idleness, yet we cannot push the thoughts aside.

It is human nature to seek the shelter of comfort and refreshment, especially when the pressures of everyday life push us to the brink of exhaustion.

My “special place” is next to a cold rushing mountain stream in the midst of the forest.

The combination of the sounds of tumbling water, the chirping of the frogs and the birds, the wafting scent of the riverine dampness on the rocks and mosses, and the sight of dancing light bouncing on the ripples offer the cool refreshment that reinvigorates the spirit and frees the mind from all other distractions.

To me, sitting beside a mountain stream and taking it all in is Nirvana.

And just thinking about it isn’t all that bad either!

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers many diverse natural opportunities for visitors to experience. One of the more unusual phenomenons that occur in the high elevations is the grassy balds.

Science is unsure of the origin of these high Eastern meadows. They could be caused by the winds that constantly batter the peaks, or periodic fires caused by electrical storms, or even by deliberate clearing by the aboriginal inhabitants of the region.

Whatever the origin, a day hike to Andrews Bald is a pleasant way to spend a morning or afternoon in the park. It’s a two mile hike from the parking lot, with some rocky areas along the trail, but even the most leisurely pace will barely take an hour to arrive at the bald!

If you arrive in late May or Early June you will be treated to the fiery blooms of the Flame Azalea or the fringed flowers of the Catawba Rhododendron. If you take the trail October, you will be treated to amazing vistas in their Fall splendor.

Be sure to carry water and a snack, and always remain aware of the possibility of snakes along the rocky parts of the trail, as Timber Rattlers will seek the warmth of the sun on the exposed rocks.

To get there from either North Carolina or Tennessee, take the Newfound Gap Road all the way to the Gap. Go West on Clingmans Dome Road until you get to the parking lot. The trail to the Dome goes up past the new Visitor’s Center, while the trail to the bald descends from the parking lot.

Andrews Bald in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a great place to experience the Eastern Appalachians!

I highly recommend it as an outdoor destination!

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the jewel of the Southern Appalachian Mountains. Known for its towering peaks and diverse flora and fauna, the Park attracts millions of nature lovers every year!

But few first time visitors are aware of the vast tributary system that provides flowing water in nearly every area of the mountains.

Mountains offer a natural barrier for weather systems, and as a result the Great Smoky Mountains are dowsed with an average annual rainfall of over eight-five inches in the high elevations.

As a result of this abundance of moisture, the mountains spawn seeps that collect into trickles and then into rivulets and streams, cascading down the slopes and over the rocks running cold and clear amidst a noisy cacophony of crashing and splashing!

The resulting wet ecosystems are a haven for coldwater fish such as the native brook trout, mammals including otters and beavers, and one of the largest collections of diverse salamander species in the world!

In addition the cool clear waters provide drinking sources for larger animals such as deer, black bear, and elk!

And many of the hundreds of bird species in the Smokies can occasionally be seen near water, including loons, herons, egrets, ducks and geese. As an International Biosphere Reserve, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is dedicated to preserving the natural heritage of the region.

But there is nothing quite like sitting next to a mountain stream. On a warm day, you may wish to dip your bare feet into the tingling cold waters, and listen to the music of the mountains. It doesn’t take long for the rest of the world to melt away, like mountaintop snow on a Spring day!

While the views from the mountaintops are spectacular, the scenes inside the heart of the forest next to a mountain stream are every bit as impressive and awe inspiring!

And a lot more refreshing!

The calendar indicates that it is March, and in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park that means one thing:

Wildflowers!

Nature is a wondrous thing. The wildflowers of Spring have but a short time to complete their cycle of blooming and seed setting before the surrounding forest leafs out and blocks the life-giving rays of the sun from the understory of secondary growth.

These are not the delicate blooms of Summer, but rather a hardier lot that can withstand late frosts and even cold snow!

You can expect to see Fleabane, Spring Beauty, Dwarf Crested Iris and Trillium of every variety. If you are lucky you might spy a Showy Orchis or Dutchman’s Britches.

My favorite spots for Spring wildflowers are along Chasteen Creek in Smokemont, Deep Creek near Bryson City, and the Cove Hardwood Forest next to the Chimneys Picnic Area.

The park is less crowded in Spring, and it’s a great time to see some of the smaller flora up close and personal.

I highly recommend it to nature lovers everywhere!

At 4,784 feet above mean sea level, Brasstown Bald is Georgia’s tallest mountain peak. A bald is so named because of the dearth of trees near the summit.

Unlike the higher mountains of the Western United States, this is not due to being above the tree line but is believed to be the result of severe climatic chances in the high elevations.

You can ascend the bulk of the mountain by vehicle, but the last six tenths of a mile requires a rigorous walk along a paved albeit sometimes steep trail.

On a clear day, you can see as far the skyscrapers in Atlanta to the south and the Great Smoky Mountains to the north.

Brasstown Bald is a great place to spend an afternoon in the Georgia Mountains! If you have never been there, I highly recommend that you plan a trip soon!

Mingus Mill is one of the many historic structures preserved and maintained in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

In the Nineteenth Century, the center of industry in rural America was the grist mill. These marvels of physics harvested natural forces, usually water, to convert grain to usable meal or flour.

Mingus Mill, which was constructed in 1886, utilized state-of-the-art turbine technology to power its machinery. Water was directed down a millrace to propel the turbine which was connected to a series of cogs and belts that would power the entire operation of the mill.

Typically, in a cash poor society, the miller would simply charge a “toll” by keeping a percentage of the finished product. Ten percent was the generally accepted fee paid for the convenience of having the grain processed and bagged.

As a result, owner and investors in mills were among the wealthiest citizens of a community. It was a very profitable business for those that could procure the capital needed for construction.

Mingus Mill is located on the Newfound Gap Road about a mile north of the Oconaluftee Vistor’s Center near Cherokee North Carolina. It’s a one hundred and twenty-four year step back into history that is just a few miles from 2010 civilization!

All photos courtesy of Richard Weisser and SmokyPhotos.com

There is one particular spot on the Blue Ridge Parkway that I often revisit in the fall in order to take a photo.

I don’t find the exact spot year after year by using GPS coordinates or by reading a mile marker. Instead, I know I’m in the right place by noticing a specific sequence of trees sporting their Autumn colors!

Appropriately enough, the 2010 digital photo on the right has something in it that is missing from the 1990 film photo below.

If you look very closely, there is a cell phone tower in the most recent photo that wasn’t there before. And while it is not very perceptible in the shot, the fact of the matter is that some of our most scenic areas around the country are being desecrated with the fixtures of technology.

I don’t have a remedy to offer. We love our mobile phones and our wireless Internet connections.

But it seems that we are giving up an awful lot to have them.

Photos Courtesy of Richard Weisser and SmokyPhotos.com

Many Great Smoky Mountains National Park visitors spend at least part of their vacation in Gatlinburg Tennessee. Gatlinburg is an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, lodging and entertainment establishments.

The city enjoys a symbiotic relationship with the national park as it provides accommodations and meals for millions of tourists every year. This reduces the environmental impact on the park itself.

Since most businesses in town remain open until 11:00 P.M. there is a noticeable chill in the October air as the annual pilgrimage of leaf-lookers make their last walk up the neon-lit strip and head for their hotel rooms or rental cabins.

After over seventy years of welcoming part-time mountaineers, Gatlinburg has become a fall rite of passage for many visitors to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

There is a little white church in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It is not easy to find. It requires driving to a remote area of the park and then a two mile hike to get there.

But when one arrives at the Little Cataloochee Church, one is immediately transported to a simpler time that revolved around faith, community, and a deep understanding that life is what it is, and you must work your way through it.

This oasis of tranquility in the middle of nowhere is a testament to those that went before us and that endured the struggle of survival against nature and all odds, and yet took time out to thank their Creator for all that they had.

Horace Kephardt, in “Our Southern Highlanders,” referred to the region as the “Land of Do Without."

So even though our times may be troubled, there is a place of inner peace within us. And although it might take a little soul-searching to get there, once we arrive, our spirit will be refreshed and reinvigorated.

And ready to face anything!

From crevice seeps an ice cold drip
That trickles swift to rivulet
Then tumbles crashing down its track
O’er rock, through sluice, down cataract
To quiet pools in lands below
Old Smokey’s deep and dark shadow.
                          (R. Weisser 2010)

There is nothing quite like sitting beside a rushing stream and listening to the “misic of the mountains.” And since the Great Smoky Mountains National Park averages nearly 85 inches of rain in the higher elevations, it is only a matter of time before the water goes somewhere!

That somewhere is down the mountain, cascading noisily down the steep slopes and collecting into ever bigger and bigger rivers until all waters from the Smokies make their way to the Great Valley of Tennessee, and then on to the Gulf of Mexico.

As one sits in the cool drafts of water chilled breezes, deafened by the song of the water, it is easier to realize that there are some things in the universe that are much greater than ourselves.

And that is a very comforting thought to have.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is situated on the spine of the Southern Appalachians, and receives an average of eighty-five inches of rain per year in the higher elevations.

This abundance of moisture not only supports an incredible diversity of plant and animal life, but also provides some dramatic vistas for park visitors.

It is not uncommon for travelers to become completely enveloped in clouds and haze as they traverse the high passages by automobile or while hiking along many of the many trails in the park.

It’s a place where the sky meets the earth, and where boundaries become obscured and overlap!

And it’s a sight to behold!

The question that I am asked most often about the Great Smoky Mountains Nation Park is: When will the Autumn eaves be at their peak color?

There is no easy answer because there are many factors that affect fall leaf color in the Great Smoky Mountains Nation Park. Temperature, rainfall, sunlight, elevation and species call all affect not only when the leaves begin to change, but how intense the colors will be and how long they will last.

But what I have learned over the thirty years or so that I have been taking photographs in the park is that you can find fall foliage somewhere within the confines of the park anytime from late September through early November.

Finding these “pockets” of color is somewhat akin to a treasure hunt, but there are “hotspots” that are generally dependable for fall leaf photography.

The Chimneys Trail, The Alum Cave Bluffs Trail, the Rainbow Falls Trail and other trails that have significant elevation changes are good bets, because the range of species is diverse along the way.

The key is to keep looking and to have fun. The Great Smoky Mountains Nation Park is one of the most photographed places in the world, for good reason!

There is something beautiful to experience around every bend in the path!

Autumn is just around the corner and that means many “leaf lovers” will be heading to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park for the annual display of brilliant Fall foliage.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers a unique outdoor experience for visitors of every level of expertise and physical condition.

There is an extensive series of backcountry trails and campsites for those that really want to get back to nature and “rough it” and there are also auto trails where you can see the park up close and personal from the comfort of your car!

If you plan to hike anywhere in the park, be aware not only the length of the trail, but also the amount of elevation change and the terrain. Even a two mile hike can be strenuous if the trail is steep and rocky.

You can get maps and plenty of free advice at any one of the Park’s three visitor’s centers. The Oconaluftee Center is located just outside of Cherokee North Carolina, the Sugarlands Center is near Gatlinburg Tennessee, and the Cades Cove Center is located deep within one of the most popular areas in the Park.

The Visitor’s Centers will also offer relevant information about travel conditions, road closures, and wildlife activity. Chances are, you will encounter at least one black bear during your visit.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of greatest treasures of the Southeastern United States. I highly recommend to anyone for a truly memorable Fall vacation!

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited park in the United States, That’s because over 2/3 if the country’s population live within a day’s drive from the park boundaries.

Summer visitors often take advantage of cooler temperatures in the higher elevations. The Balsam Mountain Campground is the highest in the park and at over 5000 feet in elevation provides pleasant sleeping conditions during the hot months.

And of course, one can wade in an icy cold mountain stream that will chatter the teeth and offset the blazing southern sun! Be please be careful while you are in the water, because the rocks can be slippery and water levels can change suddenly.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a favorite destination for many summer vacationers. Why not plan a trip to see for yourself?

Although summer draws the most visitors to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, followed closely by hoards of October leaf-lookers, spring is a time of special beauty in the southern Appalachian Mountains.

Since there are only a brief few weeks that are warm enough to allow the emergence of early blooming plants before the leaf canopy darkens the forest floor, the wildflowers appear en masse from mid-March through April.

Although the Park is known for magnificent vistas and enormous peaks, it’s always fun to enjoy the beauty “up close and personal!” And it’s fun to locate as many different kinds of blooms as possible.

My favorite wildflower viewing areas are Deep Creek near Bryson City, the Smokemont area north of the Oconaluftee Visitor’s Center, and the Cove Hardwoods Nature Trail near the Chimneys Picnic Area south of the Sugarland Park Headquarters.

If you have never visited the Smokies in the spring, I urge you to do so! You’ll avoid the crowds and experience a very special time of year in the mountains!

Photos courtesy of Richard Weisser and SmokyPhotos.com

I have some good friends that spent a long weekend in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. At some point, they decided that it would be nice to experience the park up close and personal with a hike to the very popular Abrams Falls in the Cades Cover area of the park.

It’s two and a half miles from the trailhead to the falls, and of course it’s exactly the same distance back to the parking area. And the trail is considered “moderate,” with some elevation changes, and the typical roots and rocks that you have to step over on mountain trails.

Many people that are unfamiliar with hiking mountain trails do not realize how long it can take to walk a mile, and that a five mile trip can be quite strenuous. Many fail to carry drinking water and blister patches and other hiking necessities.

And once you are two and a half miles from the car, there is no way back other than to retrace your steps and to keep your now exhausted body moving. The last mile is always the longest!

Preparation and proper dress are key to enjoying the park in the more remote areas. Dressing appropriately, having good hiking boots and adequate provisions will make the experience enjoyable instead of painful!

I know that next time, my friends will be better prepared. And I hope that their blisters heal soon!

Photos: Abrams Falls in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park courtesy of SmokyPhotos.com.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a great place to visit during any season of the year, but winter offers special opportunities not available during the other three seasons.

Due to the fact that the leaves are off of the trees, views are enhanced from nearly every vantage point, and on a clear day in winter you can see an exceptionally long way!

However, if you plan to visit the park in the winter, please be aware that many of the secondary roads are closed during cold weather.

The roads that are seasonally closed include Clingman’s Dome Road, Heintooga Ridge Road, Roundbottom/Straight Fork Road, Rich Mountain Roada and  the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail.

The roads that are open all year (weather permitting) are the Newfound Gap road (U.S. 441,) Little River Road, Laurel Creek Road and the Cades Cove Loop Road.

Most roads reopen in late April or early May for the busy summer and fall seasons.

If you plan on visiting the park before then, you might want to consider getting out of the car and hiking. The trails are less crowed and offer a unique beauty in the winter that is unlike any other time of the year.

But don’t plan on seeing any black bears, as they are denning during the winter and will not emerge until the onset of warmer weather! 

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park enjoys a rich history of prior human habitation within the contemporary park boundaries.

Unlike the first national parks that were established in the West on lands already owned by the United States Government, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was assembled with the purchase and condemnation of lands owned by private residents and a collection of lumber and mining companies.

Although most of the structures inside the park boundaries were razed at the time the park was created, a select few were allowed to remain as living museums of the historic human heritage of those that lived and worked here prior to the national park establishment.

The photos depicted here are of historic structures currently maintained by the National Park Service in the Cataloochee Valley. At one time, over 1,200 people called this place home.

And they are a testament to those hard working property owners that gave up their land, voluntarily or otherwise, to forever preserve the magnificent beauty of the Great Smoky Mountains!

Photos: Top Right Steve Woody House, bottom: Eldridge Caldwell Barn, Palmer Chapel, Little Cataloochee Church in the Cataloochee Valley,

The flame upon the candlewick
On draughts aflutter pirouette
And waltz and reel to tempo quick
Then lay in wait for Winter’s breath.

                        R Weisser Oct. 2009

As another Autumn foliage season comes to a close, I begin to look back to all of the falls of my past with fond remembrance. It’s always been my favorite season.

Full of color, and football, and the smell of leaves and the tastes of apples and pumpkins! It’s the last hurrah of temperate weather before winter sets it, a time of warm days and cool, crisp evenings. A most pleasant time of year for both dreaming and reflection!

Each fall is different with it's own personality, and presents it's own special touches. As for me, I am going to observe, and taste and savor each offering of the season.

And enjoying every moment of it!